Lawn Care

web site.
Every neighborhood has that one lawn that all the neighbors envy. You know
the type: the grass is thick, green and not a weed is in sight.
That neighbor most likely knows that the easiest way to a thick, beautiful
w

 

The information provided here is from The Scotts C

The information about lawn care is by the Scotts company

eed-free lawn is with regular feedings using a controlled-release fertilizer.

Lawns are like any other plant—it needs food to reach its full potential. The
right nutrients will not only help the lawn become thick and green, but they
will help the grass to become better adapted to drought situations and
recovering from turf diseases.

Confusion about What to Do
Often, homeowners say fertilizing the lawn is confusing. Actually, it is easier
than feeding flowers or vegetables. All plants need nutrients, and when
those nutrients can’t be found in the soil they have to come from somewhere
else. This is where plant foods become important.
The soils around the new houses of today do not have adequate nutrients to
maintain a nice lawn. Consider when a new house is built: the contractors
simply use the backfill to cover the lawn and then plant seed or sod. It is
likely that the soil will be lacking in the proper nutrients.

For the most part, you can ignore the “expert” advice that says to then add
nutrients based on the soil test. Granted, it isn’t bad advice, but it isn’t a
necessary first step and soil tests can just add to the confusion. Soil testing
is primarily for professional turf needs.
So how do you get started? First, know your grass type.
Visit with your local nursery or gardening professional to find out what type of
grass is in your lawn. If you are located in a state north of Tennessee and east
of Denver, most likely your lawn is a combination of bluegrass, ryegrass and
fine fescues. In the South, there are many different grass types, but the most
common are St. Augustinegrass and bermudagrass.
After you know what kind of grasses you have in your lawn,, visit your local
garden store or Lawn Pro dealer and purchase the lawn program that is right
for your lawn. Each bag of fertilizer will indicate how many square feet it
covers (for example, it might say “5,000 square feet”), and it will tell you the
recommended time to apply it to the lawn.
The first lawn feeding of the year should occur about the same time that the
lawn comes out of dormancy after the winter. For practicality purposes, this is
approximately the same time as the first mowing of the year.
After the spring feeding, simply follow-up every six to eight weeks with the
appropriate application for that time of year. For example, if you apply a
feeding in early April, then the next feeding should be done around the end
of May or early June.
At the minimum, a lawn should be fed in the spring and fall. But for best
results, should be followed that contains 4 to 6 feedings.
As stated previously, a lawn that is fed regularly will develop a thick, green
turf that is weed-free, better suited to drought-like conditions and less likely
to suffer from turf diseases.
With regular feedings, the root system will fill in bare spots naturally, and
weed seeds won’t have a place to germinate because the thick turf will cover
all of those bare areas.
There are also fertilizers that are made specially for summer and late fall.
Others combine the fertilizer and an ingredient to fight insects or prevent
crabgrass from germinating—such things that can ruin a nice lawn.
Start an annual lawn care program at any time of the year, just remember to
follow up with regular feedings for that thick, green, healthy lawn that your
neighbors will envy.
And they’ll think you spent hours to get it that way.

ven warm-climate ponds require some seasonal maintenance.

Listed
below are some general steps you can take to make sure your pond emerges in
spring looking great!

Pondering in the South

Aquatic Plants
Although you may continue to see some hardy water lily blooms through the winter,
you should have stopped fertilizing your water lilies and cleaned out any dead
vegetation and spent leaves. Depending on the specific southern locality, any
tropicals should be taken out and placed in a container of water (a 5-gal bucket
works great) and stored in the garage. Cutting back the marginals will help the
plants get through the couple of months dormancy winter brings.

Fish
The most common question asked is, “What do I do with my fish in the winter?” Well
now, the usual answer is, “Nothing, ” though, while the temperatures are around
freezing, you might want to consider these tips to help protect your beautiful koi and
goldfish from these cold snaps. Stop feeding them when the water temperature
reaches the mid-50’s (F°) and they are no longer active. This is the time of year when
the fish may actually look forward to winter – just in time for a nice long nap.

Pump and Filter System
Winter does not shut us down here in the south – our pumps run 24/7/365. It is
important to keep your skimmer free of any debris and inspect your pump to ensure
that it’s operating properly. Leaving the pump on throughout the winter allows the
release of gases, and maintains sufficient oxygen levels. Also remove any netting
that your pond may have required during the large leaf accumulation in fall.

Pondering in the North

When the surface of your water garden turns to ice, there are two things to think of
concerning safety of your fish.First, it’s important to keep a hole open in the ice. This
prevents the buildup of gasses that could harm your fish. These gasses develop as
the fish waste and any plant debris decomposes. The important factor is water
oxygenation. Although your fish are sleeping their way through winter, oxygenated
water is still vital to their survival through the winter.

Both of these goals can be achieved a couple of different ways. The required
preparations do not consume a lot of time, and certainly don’t threaten to take over
your weekend. If you prefer to leave the project to someone else, most pond
installers can usually be hired to do it for you. But if you’re up for getting your hands
dirty, here are a few things that you’ll want to take into consideration when
preparing for winter.

Running Your Waterfall
If you chose to keep your waterfall running through the winter, you’ll be rewarded
with some extraordinary, natural ice sculptures and winter scenes .Winter also
brings some unique considerations that you’ll need to keep your eye on.

A pump and waterfall that circulates at least 2000 gallons of water per hour is
sufficient to keep a hole open in the ice, as well as oxygenation of the water. Keep
an eye on long or slow-moving streams and areas around the waterfall. In these
areas, it’s easy for ice dams to form, diverting water over the liner. It’s important to
watch for this, especially on extremely cold days. If you find an ice dam that’s
diverting water over the edge of the liner, it’s best to turn off the pump. If you chisel
the ice buildup away, chances are it will form again in the same spot and be the
source of continuous frustration.

Surprisingly, even during the winter, the water continues to evaporate and
therefore needs to be topped off so that your pump continues to function properly.
If you make the extra effort to keep your falls running throughout the winter, you’ll
see the most beautiful ice formations and patterns around the falls and stream beds.

Shutting It Down – The Considerations Many people choose to shut down their pond
for the winter because they don’t want to worry about ice dams or pay for the cost to
run a larger pump. If you chose to shut down your waterfall for the winter, you’ll
need to replicate the effects of the waterfall in order keep the water oxygenated and
a hole open in the ice.

A pump that circulates at least 150 gallons per hour can be placed in your pond
below, but close to, the water’s surface. By allowing it to bubble about one inch
above the surface, the agitation will keep a hole in the ice and oxygenate the water
until the air temperature drops below 10° F.

If the air temperature stays below 10° F for extended periods, you’ll need to add a
floating heater in order to maintain the opening in the ice. Most heaters are
equipped with a thermostat that, when set at the proper temperature, switches the
heater on only when needed. Note, a floating heater alone will not oxygenate the
water, and therefore can be deadly to your fish.

Winter, wherever you live, is a time for Mother Nature and her “family” to change the
scenery a bit.Whether it’s a frozen, white, wintry scene, or just a rest from the heat
of the southern sun, adapting to these changes will ensure that your water garden
and its fish are healthy all year long. in mid central Suffolk County Long Island and is ba

 !

Even warm-climate ponds require some seasonal maintenance.
in
spring looking great!
Pondering in the South

Aquatic Plants
Although you may continue to see some hardy water lily blooms through the winter,
you should have stopped fertilizing your water lilies and cleaned out any dead
vegetation and spent leaves. Depending on the specific southern locality, any
tropicals should be taken out and placed in a container of water (a 5-gal bucket
works great) and stored in the garage. Cutting back the marginals will help the
plants get through the couple of months dormancy winter brings.

Fish
The most common question asked is, “What do I do with my fish in the winter?” Well
now, the usual answer is, “Nothing, ” though, while the temperatures are around
freezing, you might want to consider these tips to help protect your beautiful koi and
goldfish from these cold snaps. Stop feeding them when the water temperature
reaches the mid-50’s (F°) and they are no longer active. This is the time of year when
the fish may actually look forward to winter – just in time for a nice long nap.

Pump and Filter System
Winter does not shut us down here in the south – our pumps run 24/7/365. It is
important to keep your skimmer free of any debris and inspect your pump to ensure
that it’s operating properly. Leaving the pump on throughout the winter allows the
release of gases, and maintains sufficient oxygen levels. Also remove any netting
that your pond may have required during the large leaf accumulation in fall.

Pondering in the North

When the surface of your water garden turns to ice, there are two things to think of
concerning safety of your fish.First, it’s important to keep a hole open in the ice. This
prevents the buildup of gasses that could harm your fish. These gasses develop as
the fish waste and any plant debris decomposes. The important factor is water
oxygenation. Although your fish are sleeping their way through winter, oxygenated
water is still vital to their survival through the winter.

Both of these goals can be achieved a couple of different ways. The required
preparations do not consume a lot of time, and certainly don’t threaten to take over
your weekend. If you prefer to leave the project to someone else, most pond
installers can usually be hired to do it for you. But if you’re up for getting your hands
dirty, here are a few things that you’ll want to take into consideration when
preparing for winter.

Running Your Waterfall
If you chose to keep your waterfall running through the winter, you’ll be rewarded
with some extraordinary, natural ice sculptures and winter scenes .Winter also
brings some unique considerations that you’ll need to keep your eye on.

A pump and waterfall that circulates at least 2000 gallons of water per hour is
sufficient to keep a hole open in the ice, as well as oxygenation of the water. Keep
an eye on long or slow-moving streams and areas around the waterfall. In these
areas, it’s easy for ice dams to form, diverting water over the liner. It’s important to
watch for this, especially on extremely cold days. If you find an ice dam that’s
diverting water over the edge of the liner, it’s best to turn off the pump. If you chisel
the ice buildup away, chances are it will form again in the same spot and be the
source of continuous frustration.

Surprisingly, even during the winter, the water continues to evaporate and
therefore needs to be topped off so that your pump continues to function properly.
If you make the extra effort to keep your falls running throughout the winter, you’ll
see the most beautiful ice formations and patterns around the falls and stream beds.

Shutting It Down – The Considerations Many people choose to shut down their pond
for the winter because they don’t want to worry about ice dams or pay for the cost to
run a larger pump. If you chose to shut down your waterfall for the winter, you’ll
need to replicate the effects of the waterfall in order keep the water oxygenated and
a hole open in the ice.

A pump that circulates at least 150 gallons per hour can be placed in your pond
below, but close to, the water’s surface. By allowing it to bubble about one inch
above the surface, the agitation will keep a hole in the ice and oxygenate the water
until the air temperature drops below 10° F.

If the air temperature stays below 10° F for extended periods, you’ll need to add a
floating heater in order to maintain the opening in the ice. Most heaters are
equipped with a thermostat that, when set at the proper temperature, switches the
heater on only when needed. Note, a floating heater alone will not oxygenate the
water, and therefore can be deadly to your fish.

Winter, wherever you live, is a time for Mother Nature and her “family” to change the
scenery a bit.Whether it’s a frozen, white, wintry scene, or just a rest from the heat
of the southern sun, adapting to these changes will ensure that your water garden
and its fish are healthy all year long.

The information provided here is from The Scotts C

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