Long Island Landscaping Blog

Identifying Features :

Appearance (Morphology)

• Three distinct body regions: head, thorax (where the legs and wings are attached), abdomen.
• Part of the thorax is elongated to create a distinctive ‘neck’.
• Front legs modified as raptorial graspers with strong spikes for grabbing and holding prey.
• Large compound eyes on the head which moves freely around (up to 180°) and three simple eyes between the compound eyes.
• Incomplete or simple metamorphosis (hemimetabolous).
• Adult Males and Females
  Females usually have heavier abdomen and are larger than males. 

   

  Immatures (different stages)
  A distinct Styrofoam-like egg case protects Mantid eggs throughout the winter. Up to 200 or more nymphs may emerge from the egg case. The nymphs look like adults except for size and the sexual definition. Coloration and patterns in the nymph stage may be different than the adult.

• Natural HistoryFood
  Praying mantids are highly predacious and feed on a variety of insects, including moths, crickets, grasshoppers and flies. They lie in wait with the front legs in an upraised position. They intently watch and stalk their prey. They will eat each other.

   

  Habitat
  Praying mantids are often protectively colored to the plants they live on. This camouflage facilitates their predaceous behavior. Mantids are usually found on plants that have other insects around. Some mantids live in grass. Winged adults may be attracted to black lights in late summer and early fall.

  Predators
  Many fish and predatory aquatic insects eat larvae and pupae. Bats, birds and spiders eat flying adults.

  Interesting Behaviors
  The adult female usually eats the male after or during mating. Mantid’s grasping response is incredibly rapid, so that you see it before it catches the insect and when the insect is in its front legs. The motion is barely a blur if it is perceived at all.

  The compound eyes are capable of seeing images and colors. The three simple eyes perhaps tell the differences between light and dark.. The simple eyes are arranged in a triangle between the antennae. Compound eyes are made up of hundreds of facets constructed with two lenses. These focus the light down a light sensitive structures (rhabdome) which is connected to the optic nerve.

  Impact on the Ecosystem

  Positive
  Mantids are active predators and consume other insects. They are good garden predators, but are cannot keep up with the population growth of some insect populations and do not discriminate between beneficial and harmful garden insects.

• Collecting Live InsectsWhere to find
  Praying mantids and /or their egg cases are very difficult to locate by just looking at plants because of their camouflage. To find adults, look on flowering plants and at porch lights in August through late September. Adult males will often fly to porch lights in the late fall. Home vegetable and flower gardens that are organic or where no insecticides have been used may be a good place to look. Egg cases can be purchased from: Carolina Biological Supply Company, ARBICO, Science Kit and Boreal Laboratories, Ward’s Biology.

   

  How to collect
  To collect an egg case, carefully cut the branch with the egg case several inches below the case. If the case is attached to a wall or board, you will not be able to remove it without damaging the case. In capturing immature or adult mantids, you can use your hands to cup around the insect or gently coax them into a container. Using an insect net may be helpful to capture adults with wings. Carefully lay the net over or to the side of the mantid and with one hand gently usher the mantid into the net. Transfer the mantid into a container large enough for the mantid to move around in.

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Posted by salmortilla at 09:02 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

Class:	Reptilia
Order:	Squamata
Family:	Colubridae
Size:	Length: 18 to 51 inches (46 to 131 cm)
Weight:	Unknown
Diet:	Earthworms, frogs, toads, tadpoles, insects, salamanders and sometimes mice
Distribution:	USA, Canada, Mexico
Young:	10 to 30 live young
Animal Predators:	Crows, ravens, weasels, minks, raccoons, foxes, ground squirrels, hawks and owls
IUCN Status:	No special status
Terms:	No special terms
Lifespan:	6 to 10 years in captivity

Description

Garter snakes are named for the bright pattern of stripes (usually yellow) that resemble garters and run the length of their bodies (black, green or brown). Garter snakes have four rows of teeth which point backwards in their upper jaws. The outer two rows of teeth work independently of each other while the middle rows go back and forth, helping these snakes work large prey slowly down their throats. There are many different types of garter snakes in North America, but as the name suggests, these are the most common ones.

 

Habitat

Common garter snakes can live in a wide variety of habitats, including woods, agricultural areas, wetlands and residential areas. Because they can survive colder areas than most snakes, common garter snakes are the only snakes living in the Northwest Territories. They are found from the Atlantic to Pacific coasts of North America except for the desert regions of the southwest.
 

Feeding Habits

Prey is detected by swallowing scent trails—the snake’s red, black-tipped tongue flickers in the air testing for scents. Prey is swallowed whole, so garter snakes do not actually chew but use the teeth to move the prey in their mouths. After swallowing, snakes will have a bulge in their middles that may remain there for several days. They prey mainly on earthworms, frogs, toads, tadpoles, insects, salamanders and sometimes mice.

 

Reproduction

Mating season begins in early spring following hibernation, with mating also sometimes occurring again in the fall. The female mates with many males at once and the male plays no role in raising the young. In summer, females will give birth to as many as 80 live young (as opposed to eggs like some other snakes) but usually the litter is 10 to 25. The young snakes are five to nine inches in length at birth and do not become fully mature for two to three years.

 

Behaviour

Unlike many other snakes, garter snakes are not nocturnal. They are relatively harmless snakes that will head quickly in the other direction when they encounter humans. Garter snake bites are not poisonous, but they will bite if captured and release a foul odour. Garter snakes usually live near water and will enter it when alarmed or threatened. They hibernate in large groups of hundreds or thousands inside abandoned burrows, rock crevices or even the foundations of old buildings. 

Posted by salmortilla at 09:00 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

Black Widow Spiders are extremely poisonous arachnids (not insects). Their venom is 15 times as poisonous as the venom of the prairie rattlesnake. These venomous spiders are found in warm and temperate climates all around the world. They live in dark places, in drain pipes, under logs and rocks, etc. in North America from Florida and California to southern Canada. Their bite rarely kills humans.The female will sometimes eat the smaller male after mating. She will lay 300-400 eggs. The spiderlings (baby spiders) are not poisonous but they are cannibals, eating each other.

Diet: Black Widows eat flies, moths, crickets, small reptiles and other small animals. Their fangs inject venom and digestive juices into the prey. This kills the prey and also liquifies its flesh, letting the spider eat it easily.

Anatomy: Females (about 1 1/2 inches across) have a black body with a distinctive red hourglass shape on the underside of the abdomen. Males are smaller (about 3/4 inch across) with longer legs and red and yellow markings. The females are much more poisonous than the males. Black Widows have a two-part body, strong jaws, poisonous fangs, and a hard exoskeleton.

Webs: Black Widow Spiders use silk to make tangled-looking webs, usually near the ground in dark places. The tips of the spider’s legs are oily; this oil keeps them from getting trapped in their own webs.  

                                     

   

Posted by salmortilla at 08:58 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

Do you remember the days when you could only plant in the Spring for a short period of time?.
The same was true for fall planting.
Today the nursery industry has changed .
Wile you can still find plants that are balled  called B&B most major nursery's changed over to container grown plants.
Even large trees are now grown in containers.
The advantage of container grown plants is that they can be planted at any time of the year with the exception of when the ground is frozen and there is virtually no chance of transplant shock.
Hot Summer plantings do require more water than they do in the Spring and Fall cooler weather.
Wile container grown plants do give a great advantage to both the Landscape contractor and homeowner, keep in mind that even plants that are balled in burlap (B&B) can still be planted as long as they where dug and cared for properly in the Spring.

 

 

Posted by salmortilla at 05:35 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

What's the best way and best time of year to do one or the other?.
Historically the common belief is Spring and fall are the only times a new lawn can be planted with any degree of success.
Wile I agree that there are advantages to early Spring planting such as less weed growth and less irrigation. in reality Hot mid Summer new lawn installations can and have been equality successful.
Back to the weed problem !.
Wile it's true that more weed will grow on a summer planted lawns than in the spring ,the fact is when the hot weather comes along the weeds will still try to dominate and a control will be needed like the readily available weed and feed combinations found at most retail nursery's
 Cool weather Fall Lawns do well but also have there disadvantages.
The first and foremost being the short period of time before the first frost that can stop a new lawn in it's tracks.
On to the soil !
As most already know most of Long Island has sand for soil .
Some areas are rock hard and consist of a clay type soil.
Hears a fact you may not know.
If you put grass seed on a concrete patio or black top driveway and water it, it will grow , even look good for a short time.
The same is true with poor quality soil. the grass seed will germinate and look good for a wile, then over the weeks and months fade away and all that will survive will be the weeds.
A good quality top soil is a must for a rich green lawn.

Posted by salmortilla at 05:34 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

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Posted by salmortilla at 05:32 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

Even warm-climate ponds require some seasonal maintenance.
Winter, regardless of whether you live in northern or southern climates, brings a general slowing down of the pond. The fish aren't as active, the plants go dormant, and in freezing climates - the water stops moving as well. Both climate regions bring their own special challenges when it comes to over-wintering water gardens. Listed below are some general steps you can take to make sure your pond emerges in spring looking great!

Pondering in the South

Aquatic Plants
Although you may continue to see some hardy water lily blooms through the winter, you should have stopped fertilizing your water lilies and cleaned out any dead vegetation and spent leaves. Depending on the specific southern locality, any tropicals should be taken out and placed in a container of water (a 5-gal bucket works great) and stored in the garage. Cutting back the marginals will help the plants get through the couple of months dormancy winter brings.

Fish
The most common question asked is, "What do I do with my fish in the winter?" Well now, the usual answer is, "Nothing, " though, while the temperatures are around freezing, you might want to consider these tips to help protect your beautiful koi and goldfish from these cold snaps. Stop feeding them when the water temperature reaches the mid-50’s (F°) and they are no longer active. This is the time of year when the fish may actually look forward to winter – just in time for a nice long nap.

Pump and Filter System
Winter does not shut us down here in the south – our pumps run 24/7/365. It is important to keep your skimmer free of any debris and inspect your pump to ensure that it’s operating properly. Leaving the pump on throughout the winter allows the release of gases, and maintains sufficient oxygen levels. Also remove any netting that your pond may have required during the large leaf accumulation in fall.

Pondering in the North

When the surface of your water garden turns to ice, there are two things to think of concerning safety of your fish.First, it’s important to keep a hole open in the ice. This prevents the buildup of gasses that could harm your fish. These gasses develop as the fish waste and any plant debris decomposes.The important factor is water oxygenation. Although your fish are sleeping their way through winter, oxygenated water is still vital to their survival through the winter.

Both of these goals can be achieved a couple of different ways. The required preparations do not consume a lot of time, and certainly don’t threaten to take over your weekend. If you prefer to leave the project to someone else, most pond installers can usually be hired to do it for you. But if you’re up for getting your hands dirty, here are a few things that you’ll want to take into consideration when preparing for winter.

Running Your Waterfall
If you chose to keep your waterfall running through the winter, you’ll be rewarded with some extraordinary, natural ice sculptures and winter scenes.Winter also brings some unique considerations that you’ll need to keep your eye on.

A pump and waterfall that circulates at least 2000 gallons of water per hour is sufficient to keep a hole open in the ice, as well as oxygenation of the water. Keep an eye on long or slow-moving streams and areas around the waterfall. In these areas, it’s easy for ice dams to form, diverting water over the liner. It’s important to watch for this, especially on extremely cold days. If you find an ice dam that’s diverting ater over the edge of the liner, it’s best to turn off the pump. If you chisel the ice buildup away, chances are it will form again in the same spot and be the source of continuous frustration.

Surprisingly, even during the winter, the water continues to evaporate and therefore needs to be topped off so that your pump continues to function properly. If you make the extra effort to keep your falls running throughout the winter, you’ll see the most beautiful ice formations and patterns around the falls and streambeds.

Shutting It Down – The Considerations Many people choose to shut down their pond for the winter because they don’t want to worry about ice dams or pay for the cost to run a larger pump. If you chose to shut down your waterfall for the winter, you’ll need to replicate the effects of the waterfall in order keep the water oxygenated and a hole open in the ice.

A pump that circulates at least 150 gallons per hour can be placed in your pond below, but close to, the water’s surface. By allowing it to bubble about one inch above the surface, the agitation will keep a hole in the ice and oxygenate the water until the air temperature drops below 10° F.

If the air temperature stays below 10° F for extended periods, you’ll need to add a floating heater in order to maintain the opening in the ice. Most heaters are equipped with a thermostat that, when set at the proper temperature, switches the heater on only when needed. Note, afloating heater alone will not oxygenate the water, and therefore can be deadly to your fish.

Winter, wherever you live, is a time for Mother Nature and her "family" to change the scenery a bit.Whether it’s a frozen, white, wintry scene, or just a rest from the heat of the southern sun, adapting to these changes will ensure that your water garden and its fish are healthy all year long.

The pond in the photo below is made with the aquascape system ., it was designed and installed by us for a customer and runs all year long.

                                         

            

Posted by salmortilla at 05:30 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

The information provided here is from The Scotts Company web site.
Every neighborhood has that one lawn that all the neighbors envy. You know the type: the grass is thick, green and not a weed is in sight.
That neighbor most likely knows that the easiest way to a thick, beautiful weed-free lawn is with regular feedings using a controlled-release fertilizer.

Lawns are like any other plant—it needs food to reach its full potential. The right nutrients will not only help the lawn become thick and green, but they will help the grass to become better adapted to drought situations and recovering from turf diseases.

Confusion about What to Do
Often, homeowners say fertilizing the lawn is confusing. Actually, it is easier than feeding flowers or vegetables. All plants need nutrients, and when those nutrients can’t be found in the soil they have to come from somewhere else. This is where plant foods become important.
The soils around the new houses of today do not have adequate nutrients to maintain a nice lawn. Consider when a new house is built: the contractors simply use the backfill to cover the lawn and then plant seed or sod. It is likely that the soil will be lacking in the proper nutrients.

For the most part, you can ignore the “expert” advice that says to then add nutrients based on the soil test. Granted, it isn’t bad advice, but it isn’t a necessary first step and soil tests can just add to the confusion. Soil testing is primarily for professional turf needs.
So how do you get started? First, know your grass type.
Visit with your local nursery or gardening professional to find out what type of grass is in your lawn. If you are located in a state north of Tennessee and east of Denver, most likely your lawn is a combination of bluegrass, ryegrass and fine fescues. In the South, there are many different grass types, but the most common are St. Augustinegrass and bermudagrass.
After you know what kind of grasses you have in your lawn,, visit your local garden store or Lawn Pro dealer and purchase the lawn program that is right for your lawn. Each bag of fertilizer will indicate how many square feet it covers (for example, it might say “5,000 square feet”), and it will tell you the recommended time to apply it to the lawn.
The first lawn feeding of the year should occur about the same time that the lawn comes out of dormancy after the winter. For practicality purposes, this is approximately the same time as the first mowing of the year.
After the spring feeding, simply follow-up every six to eight weeks with the appropriate application for that time of year. For example, if you apply a feeding in early April, then the next feeding should be done around the end of May or early June.
At the minimum, a lawn should be fed in the spring and fall. But for best results, should be followed that contains 4 to 6 feedings.
As stated previously, a lawn that is fed regularly will develop a thick, green turf that is weed-free, better suited to drought-like conditions and less likely to suffer from turf diseases.
With regular feedings, the root system will fill in bare spots naturally, and weed seeds won’t have a place to germinate because the thick turf will cover all of those bare areas.
There are also fertilizers that are made specially for summer and late fall. Others combine the fertilizer and an ingredient to fight insects or prevent crabgrass from germinating—such things that can ruin a nice lawn.
Start an annual lawn care program at any time of the year, just remember to follow up with regular feedings for that thick, green, healthy lawn that your neighbors will envy.
And they’ll think you spent hours to get it that way.

Below is a lawn we installed from seed.

At the time the photo was taken it was less than one month old and ready for a party.

Of cause it required a little more seed after the party but no real damage was done.

Posted by salmortilla at 05:28 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)